Once the parts to be painted are placed in the spray booth, a procedure is started to clean them that my wife relates to her days as a surgical scrub nurse.  The floors and walls of the paint booth are dirty, but the surfaces to be painted must be free of dirt, dust, and lint.  Sue and I use 400 to 600 wet/dry sandpaper to go over the surface and knock off the nubbins. Then we use a swifter to collect the dust, followed by tact cloth.  The last step is a special Poly-Fiber cleaner called C2210 applied on using only new painters cloths that have not been through a washing machine. 

 Poly-Brush is diluted with a special reducer.  Blush retardant is added if the humidity is high enough.  The temperature and humidity range have to be controlled within a narrow range.  The mixture is strained into the paint sprayer cup and a test spray is made against a sacrifical surface.  With all set properly, painting progresses continuously and smoothly from left to right and back again, overlapping each stroke about 50%.  Each side is finished, the wing rotated and the other side painted.  Wait 15-30 minutes and do it again, this time in a cross stroke, up and down. 

A few hours of drying and we can begin to see the results of our labor. As we get more consistent, it generally comes out right.  When we are learning, we often had to wait for the paint to dry, sand if down, and start over.  The Poly-Fiber has a tendency of lifting the edges of the surface tapes, especially the pinked edges. These had to be fixed with a hobby iron and sand paper.  On top of the brush stroke of Poly-Fiber we sprayed one or two sets of cross strokes of the pink Poly-Fiber, depending on the coverage.  Then the fabric is sanded smooth with care not to sand through fabric over screws or rivets.